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'美國知識分子咖啡是怎樣賣咖啡的？知識分子咖啡圖標有故事'

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'美國,知識分子,咖啡,怎樣,標有,故事,'

'專業咖啡知識交流 更多咖啡豆資訊 請關注咖啡工房（微信公衆號cafe_style ） 我喜歡喝咖啡，每天至少一杯，有時需要兩杯，但是不能再多了，心臟受不了。學生時期從星巴克開始喝，後來上海的 Seesaw 開了去那兒喝，再後來，小咖啡館遍地開花，我注意到菜單上'

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'2018-07-02 13:42:24'

'2018-07-02 13:44:29'

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'<img alt="" src="/uploads/allimg/180702/3-1PF2134235600.jpg" style="width: 800px; height: 533px;" /><br />
<h2 style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 28px; margin: 0px 0px 0.8em; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; font-size: 19px; font-weight: normal; caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51); color: rgb(51, 51, 51); box-sizing: border-box; border-width: 0px 0px 2px; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-color: rgb(80, 193, 233); font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; line-height: 30px; font-family: &quot;ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro&quot;, メイリオ, Meiryo, &quot;ＭＳ Ｐゴシック&quot;, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; position: relative; width: auto;">
	<span style="padding: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; font-size: 16px;"><font style="padding: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; box-sizing: border-box; vertical-align: inherit;">專業咖啡知識交流 更多咖啡豆資訊 請關注咖啡工房（微信公衆號cafe_style ）</font></span></h2>
<ul style="padding-right: 0px; padding-left: 0px; caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 0px 0px 20px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; font-family: 微軟雅黑, 黑體, Arial; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; list-style: none outside;">
	<li style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 20px; margin: 0px 0px 12px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; list-style: none; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-style: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: inherit; font-variant-position: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-alternates: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: inherit; line-height: 18px; vertical-align: baseline; background-image: url(https://coffeemecca.jp/wp-content/themes/coffee/images/coffeelist.png); background-size: 0.8em; background-attachment: scroll; background-color: transparent; background-position: 4px 3px; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat;">
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				我喜歡喝咖啡，每天至少一杯，有時需要兩杯，但是不能再多了，心臟受不了。學生時期從星巴克開始喝，後來上海的 Seesaw 開了去那兒喝，再後來，小咖啡館遍地開花，我注意到菜單上經常出現這些名字：埃塞俄比亞、布隆迪、肯尼亞&hellip;但還是搞不清楚哪個豆子什麼味道，也沒有特殊喜好。大多數時候，我還是會選擇 flat white.</div>
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				用我咖啡師室友的話來說：&ldquo;喝咖啡，你屬於半專業型的，我給你衝了那麼多種豆子，你走了個捷徑。&rdquo;我想了想，從什麼時候開始，咖啡變&ldquo;難&rdquo;了？它的門檻越來越高，讓食客有點害怕，有點像葡萄酒了。爲了弄明白咖啡是如何走到今天這步的，我查了些資料。這家叫做&ldquo;<a href="https://www.gafei.com/kafeidou/20180606118725.html">知識分子咖啡</a>&rdquo;的咖啡，功勞不小。</div>
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				我想從一個咖啡愛好者的角度，和你說說這位知識分子的故事。</div>
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				是誰，自稱&ldquo;知識分子&rdquo;？</div>
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				這位知識分子來自芝加哥，生於1995年，爸爸叫 Doug Zell，媽媽叫 Emily Mange. 2015認了Peet&#39;s Coffee &amp; Tea 當乾爹（Peet&#39;s 由 JAB Holding Company 控股，當年還收了另一家精品咖啡巨頭 Stumptown 樹墩城咖啡）。</div>
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				雖說它的logo是顆長著翅膀的小豆子，這個咖啡公司並沒有飛很遠。目前只在美國境內有咖啡店，分佈在芝加哥、紐約、波士頓、洛杉磯。另外還有三個烘豆子工廠，分別在芝加哥、洛杉磯、舊金山。</div>
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				Venice Beach Coffeebar, Los Angeles</div>
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				說來，爲什麼要叫知識分子？喝了會變聰明嗎？</div>
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				Intelligentsia 這個詞從俄語來。1860年左右，俄國作家 Pyotr Boborykin 把 Intelligentsia 定義爲&ldquo;社會管理者和優秀文化輸出者&rdquo;，也就是一羣具有社會責任感的文化人。不過他也不是拍腦袋想出來這個詞的，而是從德語的 Intelligenz 借來的。</div>
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				Zell 之所以用&ldquo;知識分子&rdquo;命名咖啡公司，是因爲他不想開一家普通的小咖啡店。他想往上游走，走到咖啡農中間去，直接從他們手裏買豆子。他還想往下游走，走到食客中間去，告訴他們每一種咖啡的故事。這麼一來，這家公司確實有點兒&ldquo;<a href="https://www.gafei.com/kafeidou/20180606118725.html">知識分子咖啡</a>&rdquo;的派頭。</div>
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				Broadway Coffeebar, Chicago</div>
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				咖啡浪潮，一波一波又一波</div>
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				如今，這種打通咖啡上下游的公司越來越多，他們共同組成了咖啡愛好者津津樂道的&ldquo;第三波咖啡浪潮&rdquo;。到底什麼叫第三波？第一第二波在哪？</div>
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				簡單來說，第一波是速溶咖啡，要快、要方便；第二波是 Peet&#39;s 和星巴克，自己烘培咖啡，並且注重咖啡館的功能性；第三波是把咖啡弄得跟葡萄酒一樣講究，咖啡豆要悉心照料、咖啡農要收入良好、豆子要淺度烘培以體現它本來的風味；第四波&hellip;其實已經開始了，就是像調雞尾酒一樣做創意咖啡。上海的 Ocean Grounds, 新開的 OPS 都是這樣的。</div>
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				Logan Square Coffeebar, Chicago</div>
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				Intelligentsia和來自波特蘭的 Stumptown, 來自北卡羅來納州的 Counter Culture都是第三波咖啡浪潮的代表選手。仔細想想，Intelligentsia 誕生於22年前啊！那會兒咖啡世界還是 Peet&#39;s 和星巴克的天下，大部分國內消費者還在喝速溶咖啡，有的讀者朋友甚至還沒出生&hellip;</div>
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				老闆 Zell 是被咖啡神仙附身了嗎？怎麼會想到這個點子？</div>
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				Zell 天生喜歡創業。1988年，他從威斯康星大學歷史系畢業，先去日本電子公司幹了一陣子，感到不滿意。一年後搬去加州，賣起了瓶裝茶。這是種添加了甜味劑的瓶裝涼茶，估計跟冰紅茶差不多味道。那會兒還不流行喝這個（不得不說，飲料也是講究潮流的產品！），熬了四年，他終於熬不下去了，放棄賣茶。</div>
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				Doug Zell</div>
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				1993年，Zell 來到舊金山，看到一些咖啡館竟然在自己店裏烘培咖啡，非常震驚。畢竟在這之前，大家喝的都是超市裏一罐一賣的速溶咖啡加伴侶。</div>
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				他在 Peet&#39;s 學習了咖啡的烘培和製作，蠢蠢欲動，決定創業。</div>
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				Zell 首先選擇了芝加哥。自己挑選生豆、烘培、包裝、順便把包裝設計也做了。他把這些豆子賣給附近的餐廳，生意不錯。然後他開始做咖啡館。前面說了，他不想開&ldquo;另一家咖啡館&rdquo;。怎麼做才能不一樣呢？他打了三張牌。</div>
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				Chicago Roasting Works</div>
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				直接貿易，Intelligentsia 第一張牌</div>
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				Intelligentsia 對咖啡產業的顛覆性動作，是直接貿易 Direct Trade. 顧名思義，直接從咖啡農手裏買豆子，跳過各路中間商。由於他們是行業裏第一個幹這件事的，遊戲規則也由他們定：</div>
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				直 接 貿 易 遊 戲 規 則</div>
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				1. 創造新職業&mdash;&mdash;尋豆師。第一批尋豆師小分隊由6人組成，一年裏三分之二的時間穿梭在南美、東非、埃塞俄比亞的咖啡莊園裏。看到有潛力的土地就住下來，給咖啡農提供技術支持。</div>
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				2. 提前下單。一般來說，咖啡農收完豆子纔拿到市場上賣，收成量和品質決定豆子的價格。錢到手的週期很長，咖啡農們心慌慌。而 Intelligentsia 在每個採收季開始之前就跟咖啡農下訂單，讓他們專心收豆子。</div>
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				3. 講究地塊。喜歡葡萄酒的人對地塊、風土的概念一定不陌生。最著名的例子是法國勃艮第，幾萬一瓶的羅曼尼康帝，貴得跟喝金子似的。直接貿易的咖啡豆也講地塊。Intelligentsia 有時候只買咖啡園裏的一小塊地方，叫做 Micro Lot（微地塊）。以確保質量。</div>
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				4. 講究時令。我們喫菜，尤其南方菜系，講究時令。咖啡豆也是。由於 Intelligentsia 合作的咖啡園遍佈世界各地，每個園子的收成時間不一樣。官網和各家門店時刻更新咖啡豆採收信息。</div>
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				圖片來自Intelligentsia官網的尋豆日誌</div>
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				它和公平貿易 Fair Trade 有什麼區別呢？它倆都是精品咖啡常見的買豆子模式，最大的區別是：直接貿易的錢到咖啡農兜裏，而公平貿易的錢到進口商兜裏。直接貿易的主動權在烘豆商，他們見證了豆子的成長，並且能決定豆子怎麼長；而公平貿易由美國的非營利組織 Fair Trade USA 認證，烘豆公司沒有決定權。（感興趣的話可以讀文末參考資料＃5）</div>
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				直接貿易一出來，咖啡同行們不高興了，誰願意自己的行業大地震啊？</div>
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				&ldquo;你們這是擾亂市場秩序，很過分！&rdquo;</div>
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				&ldquo;你們這是打著慈善的名號賺錢，很過分！&rdquo;</div>
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				&ldquo;你們這是用花裏胡哨的營銷糊弄消費者，很過分！&rdquo;</div>
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				但是消費者除了抱怨價格貴以外，並無大意見，甚至大部分人很高興。畢竟，他們除了星巴克以外多了一個選擇。</div>
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				Highline Hotel Coffeebar, New York</div>
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				呃，何止一個？Stumptown, Counter Culture 咖啡都開始用這個模式，一些小咖啡館也接二連三地冒出來，都以咖啡豆的品質爲賣點，劃分越來越細。如今，國內一線城市的精品咖啡館菜單上，除了傳統的意式咖啡外，都有手衝的選擇，上面標註了眼花繚亂的產地名字。但我有時候會想，這是不是過於講究了？</div>
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				咖啡師，Intelligentsia 第二張牌</div>
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				在我爸媽那一輩人眼中，咖啡師就是服務員，給餐廳打工的。我一直覺得，咖啡師、廚師、餐廳服務員都不是零起點的工作，是需要藝術和智慧的。美國很多星巴克的工作人員都是兼職打工的大學生，他們的初衷確實是賺生活費，然而真正做得好的，都不把它當成&ldquo;一份差事&rdquo;。</div>
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				Coffee Truck, Highline Hotel, New York</div>
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				寫這篇文章參考最多的一本書是 Magazine B.第十一期，我非常喜歡這本書的一個章節 Baristas&#39; Belongings，咖啡師的包裏有什麼。說兩位印象最深的。</div>
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				Jack Held 在芝加哥 Broadway 分店工作。他本科在舊金山學雕塑，研究生搬來芝加哥讀書。背了只 Under Armour 雙肩包，裏面裝了一罐花生醬，因爲花生醬抹蘋果和香蕉很好喫，而且可以補充蛋白質（典型美國大學生&hellip; peanut butter banana）；裏面還有一隻印有 Intelligentsia logo 的馬克杯，因爲他不喜歡外帶杯，而且拿著自家杯子在街上走很酷。包裏還有兩本佛教書，新的愛好。</div>
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				Jamie Lao在洛杉磯 Venice Coffeebar 工作。她在 UCLA 學語言學，背了只 Freitag 包。裏面有兩團毛線球，因爲她那會兒在織毛衣；有一本教極客燒菜的書Cooking for Geeks，一個橙色錢包，錢包裏面塞滿了收據，和一張迪士尼樂園全年通行證。</div>
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				所有在 Intelligentsia 工作的咖啡師，都要經過嚴格訓練，通過考試才能留下。所以在他們眼中，這家店就是一個咖啡大學。一個新咖啡師要學什麼呢？杯測、萃取咖啡、打奶泡、瞭解咖啡產區知識。這套培訓系統，確實爲 Intelligentsia 帶來了成效。2010年，洛杉磯 Venice 分店的 Michael Phillips 成爲第一個贏得世界咖啡師大賽的美國人。他後來自己開了一家 Handsome Coffee Roasters 也非常受歡迎。</div>
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				話說回來，還是名字起得好。都叫<a href="https://www.gafei.com/kafeidou/20180606118725.html">知識分子咖啡</a>了，能不重視咖啡教育嗎？</div>
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				社羣，Intelligentsia 第三張牌</div>
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				什麼樣的是好咖啡店？這就跟哪家飯店好喫、哪家酒吧好喝一樣，幾乎是一個聊天雷區。每當你說出一個名字，總有人跳出來反駁：&ldquo;我覺得這家一般誒，xxx的咖啡不錯！&rdquo;</div>
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				Wicker Park Coffeebar, Chicago</div>
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				要我說，當你想喝咖啡的時候（獨自工作或者和朋友約），腦袋裏第一家蹦出來的店，就是好的咖啡店。網紅咖啡館也好、公司樓下的星巴克也罷，能讓你喝得開心、呆得舒服的咖啡店，就是好咖啡店。網紅咖啡店好在，它滿足了拍照和社交的需求，咖啡好不好喝不重要；星巴克贏在方便；而如果好喝好看方便、而且能給人靈感，那便是極好了。</div>
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				Intelligentsia 的目標就是這個。它之所以二十多年來沒迅速擴張，就是因爲每一家店都得花很大功夫去融入周邊的社區。換句話說，每一家分店和周邊環境的&ldquo;摩擦力&rdquo;極小。費了那麼大勁找豆子、研究烘焙、裝修店鋪，都是爲了給消費者一個有啓發性的體驗。也難怪它賣那麼高價格，還受到大家喜愛（反面聲音也有，說它太貴、太裝、太精英主義）。有意思的是，一位消費者給美國亞馬遜網站的&ldquo;Black Cat&rdquo;豆子寫下了這樣的評論：</div>
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				喝它的時候我創造力爆棚。而且不知爲何</div>
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				我用 Macbook Pro 的時候感覺豆子更好喝</div>
			<div>
				&nbsp;</div>
			<div>
				喝了 Intelligentsia 當然不會變聰明，也不會變成知識分子，但是在喝那杯咖啡的時候，心情確實變好、靈感確實來了，就足夠讓人滿足了。</div>
			<div>
				&nbsp;</div>
			<div>
				參考資料</div>
			<div>
				&nbsp;</div>
			<div>
				1｜Magazine B.Issue No.11 Intelligentsia</div>
			<div>
				&nbsp;</div>
			<div>
				2｜Intelligentsia Official Website: https://www.intelligentsiacoffee.com/</div>
			<div>
				&nbsp;</div>
			<div>
				3｜Intelligentsia Coffee &amp; Tea Wikipedia Page</div>
			<div>
				&nbsp;</div>
			<div>
				4｜Sprudge Media Network: http://sprudge.com/</div>
			<div>
				&nbsp;</div>
			<div>
				5｜Is Direct Trade FairSprudge Media Network</div>
			<div>
				&nbsp;</div>
			<div style="padding: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1;">
				<span style="font-size: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit; background-color: transparent;">Nora Liu</span></div>
		</div>
	</li>
</ul>
<h2 style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 28px; margin: 0px 0px 0.8em; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; font-size: 19px; font-weight: normal; caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51); color: rgb(51, 51, 51); box-sizing: border-box; border-width: 0px 0px 2px; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-color: rgb(80, 193, 233); font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; line-height: 30px; font-family: &quot;ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro&quot;, メイリオ, Meiryo, &quot;ＭＳ Ｐゴシック&quot;, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; position: relative; width: auto;">
	&nbsp;</h2>
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'1530510144'

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'專業咖啡知識交流 更多咖啡豆資訊 請關注咖啡工房（微信公衆號cafe_style ） 我喜歡喝咖啡，每天至少一杯，有時需要兩杯，但是不能再多了，心臟受不了。學生時期從星巴克開始喝，後來上海的 Seesaw 開了去那兒喝，再後來，小咖啡館遍地開花，我注意到菜單上'

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