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'<p>
由於都是大地的產物，同樣吸收了日月精華，咖啡與茶有共同之處，就是使人興奮而不失理性，與酒相比更是如此。酒中出詩人(如李白)，出作家(如海明威)，甚至出總統(如葉利欽)，但難出科學家，哲學家(蘇格拉底好飲但不嗜酒)。相反，喝着茶，喝着咖啡，可以清醒地思考，可以理智地行動。</p>
<p>
有人說，近代意義上的知識分子產生於18世紀，他們是喝着咖啡成長的。法國一家叫普洛可甫的 咖啡館，就走出過啓蒙運動的三巨頭——伏爾泰、魯索、狄德羅。同樣，中國歷史上雖然也酒氣濃烈，在沉醉中產生了詩歌，也染上了血腥,但淡淡的茶的威力更爲久遠。在氤氳的茶香中，中國產生了儒家的人文情懷，道的哲思辨，禪的空靈智慧。</p>
<p>
但是，咖啡與茶，還是有極大的區別。茶樹在雲霧繚繞之山水間生長，擁有陽，也擁有陰，陰陽調和出來的是內斂，不走極端。小小的茶壺，溶解了中國千年文化的精髓——中庸。中國人"溫良"的民族性(辜鴻銘語)，是用淡淡的茶水泡出來的。中國人在杯茶中，增進了和睦，化解了仇恨。中華民族用"功夫茶"，捍衛了五千年的文化的精華不變，更溶解了異族的多次入侵。</p>
<p>
咖啡就是不同。咖啡雖然不如酒那樣激烈，但其濃，其香，也是一種極致。法國外交家塔列蘭曾經說過："熬製得最理想的咖啡，應當黑得像魔鬼，燙得像地獄，純潔得像天使，甜蜜得像愛情。"善與惡，美與醜兩個極端，都在一杯咖啡中顯現。因此，西方性格中的張揚，西方文化的進取，就在咖啡中透露。拿破崙，就是喝着咖啡展開徵服。在西方經濟學中，"最大化"或"最優化"是其終極追求：企業追求利潤的最大化，消費者追求效用的最大化。這一點，在美國的 咖啡文化中表現的淋漓盡致。</p>
<p>
在歐洲，咖啡更多是散淡，閒適，一杯咖啡配上一個下午的陽光，低頭看書或高談闊論。但是，在美國，更多的是看到上班族手捧一杯咖啡，匆匆走進辦公室，在計算機前勞作一天。在歐洲， 咖啡店多是一家一家各具風情的小店。在美國，星巴克是一個有兩萬家分店，市值超過200億美元的帝國，觸角甚至伸到了咖啡的大本營，在法國，意大利耀武揚威，象徵着美國商業文化的威力。</p>
<p>
當中國打開大門，東方遭遇西方，茶就與咖啡註定了要展開較量，這也是兩種民族性的交手。在中國，茶店越開越多，茶葉越賣越精，茶文化也在官員，學者的熱捧中成爲顯學。但在不聲不響中，咖啡也在擴大在中國的地盤。星巴克同肯德基，麥當勞一樣長驅直入，攻城略地，成爲西方的新圖騰。</p>
<p>
當咖啡進入茶的國度的過程中，中國人的性格也在悄悄改變。由內斂變得張揚，由保守變得開放。在蜂擁出國的中國遊客的喧譁中，在海外佈滿"中國製造"的貨架中，在80後，90後一代人咄咄逼人的鋒芒中，我們聞到越來越濃烈的咖啡的香味。</p>
<p>
說咖啡會取代茶，正如說茶會取代咖啡一樣荒謬。因爲我們也看到了，茶同樣在西方展現魅力，並攻佔市場。因此，茶與咖啡在中國較量的結果，應該是兩者的雙贏。茶館和咖啡店都會越來越多。更重要的是，咖啡的張揚與茶的內斂應該找到一個平衡點。</p>
<p>
爲此，我們也許應該咖啡與茶一起喝，早上一杯星巴克，中午一壺普洱?</p>
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