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'<p>
由於都是大地的產物,同樣吸收了日月精華,咖啡與茶有共同之處,就是使人興奮而不失理性,與酒相比更是如此。酒中出詩人(如李白),出作家(如海明威),甚至出總統(如葉利欽),但難出科學家,哲學家(蘇格拉底好飲但不嗜酒)。相反,喝着茶,喝着咖啡,可以清醒地思考,可以理智地行動。</p>
<p>
有人說,近代意義上的知識分子產生於18世紀,他們是喝着咖啡成長的。法國一家叫普洛可甫的 咖啡館,就走出過啓蒙運動的三巨頭——伏爾泰、魯索、狄德羅。同樣,中國歷史上雖然也酒氣濃烈,在沉醉中產生了詩歌,也染上了血腥,但淡淡的茶的威力更爲久遠。在氤氳的茶香中,中國產生了儒家的人文情懷,道的哲思辨,禪的空靈智慧。</p>
<p>
但是,咖啡與茶,還是有極大的區別。茶樹在雲霧繚繞之山水間生長,擁有陽,也擁有陰,陰陽調和出來的是內斂,不走極端。小小的茶壺,溶解了中國千年文化的精髓——中庸。中國人"溫良"的民族性(辜鴻銘語),是用淡淡的茶水泡出來的。中國人在杯茶中,增進了和睦,化解了仇恨。中華民族用"功夫茶",捍衛了五千年的文化的精華不變,更溶解了異族的多次入侵。</p>
<p>
咖啡就是不同。咖啡雖然不如酒那樣激烈,但其濃,其香,也是一種極致。法國外交家塔列蘭曾經說過:"熬製得最理想的咖啡,應當黑得像魔鬼,燙得像地獄,純潔得像天使,甜蜜得像愛情。"善與惡,美與醜兩個極端,都在一杯咖啡中顯現。因此,西方性格中的張揚,西方文化的進取,就在咖啡中透露。拿破崙,就是喝着咖啡展開徵服。在西方經濟學中,"最大化"或"最優化"是其終極追求:企業追求利潤的最大化,消費者追求效用的最大化。這一點,在美國的 咖啡文化中表現的淋漓盡致。</p>
<p>
在歐洲,咖啡更多是散淡,閒適,一杯咖啡配上一個下午的陽光,低頭看書或高談闊論。但是,在美國,更多的是看到上班族手捧一杯咖啡,匆匆走進辦公室,在計算機前勞作一天。在歐洲, 咖啡店多是一家一家各具風情的小店。在美國,星巴克是一個有兩萬家分店,市值超過200億美元的帝國,觸角甚至伸到了咖啡的大本營,在法國,意大利耀武揚威,象徵着美國商業文化的威力。</p>
<p>
當中國打開大門,東方遭遇西方,茶就與咖啡註定了要展開較量,這也是兩種民族性的交手。在中國,茶店越開越多,茶葉越賣越精,茶文化也在官員,學者的熱捧中成爲顯學。但在不聲不響中,咖啡也在擴大在中國的地盤。星巴克同肯德基,麥當勞一樣長驅直入,攻城略地,成爲西方的新圖騰。</p>
<p>
當咖啡進入茶的國度的過程中,中國人的性格也在悄悄改變。由內斂變得張揚,由保守變得開放。在蜂擁出國的中國遊客的喧譁中,在海外佈滿"中國製造"的貨架中,在80後,90後一代人咄咄逼人的鋒芒中,我們聞到越來越濃烈的咖啡的香味。</p>
<p>
說咖啡會取代茶,正如說茶會取代咖啡一樣荒謬。因爲我們也看到了,茶同樣在西方展現魅力,並攻佔市場。因此,茶與咖啡在中國較量的結果,應該是兩者的雙贏。茶館和咖啡店都會越來越多。更重要的是,咖啡的張揚與茶的內斂應該找到一個平衡點。</p>
<p>
爲此,我們也許應該咖啡與茶一起喝,早上一杯星巴克,中午一壺普洱?</p>
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