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'120784' |
catid |
'101' |
title |
'Dry Proces咖啡豆日曬處理法步驟過程講解 日曬法咖啡豆特點' |
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'/uploads/allimg/180713/3-1PG31I30MK-lp.jpg' |
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'Dry,Process,日曬,咖啡,步驟,過程,講解,咖啡豆' |
description |
'專業咖啡知識交流 更多咖啡豆資訊 請關注咖啡工房(微信公衆號cafe_style ) 日曬法 Natural Processed/Sundried/Dry process。 按照慣例,在開始看處理法前,所有讀者都需要對咖啡果的結構有一個基本瞭解,這樣才能知道:哪一部分有怎樣的影響?哪一部分在' |
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'2020-08-16 18:23:08' |
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'2018-07-13 17:35:19' |
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content |
'<img alt="" src="/uploads/allimg/180713/3-1PG31I30MK.jpg" style="width: 800px; height: 532px;" /><br />
<h2 style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 28px; margin: 0px 0px 0.8em; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; font-size: 19px; font-weight: normal; caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51); color: rgb(51, 51, 51); box-sizing: border-box; border-width: 0px 0px 2px; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-color: rgb(80, 193, 233); font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; line-height: 30px; font-family: "ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3", "Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro", メイリオ, Meiryo, "MS Pゴシック", sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; position: relative; width: auto;">
<span style="padding: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; font-size: 16px;"><font style="padding: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; box-sizing: border-box; vertical-align: inherit;">專業咖啡知識交流 更多咖啡豆資訊 請關注咖啡工房(微信公衆號cafe_style )</font></span></h2>
<ul style="padding-right: 0px; padding-left: 0px; caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 0px 0px 20px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; font-family: 微軟雅黑, 黑體, Arial; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; list-style: none outside;">
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<a href="https://m.gafei.com/views-121689">咖啡豆日曬</a>法Natural Processed/Sundried/Dry process。</div>
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按照慣例,在開始看處理法前,所有讀者都需要對咖啡果的結構有一個基本瞭解,這樣才能知道:哪一部分有怎樣的影響?哪一部分在處理的哪一步或去除、或保留?等等信息。</div>
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首先,植物學上講,咖啡豆不是“豆”,咖啡的果實屬於水果。的確,它長得很像豆子,但是從咖啡植株的果實形態上看,咖啡果實更像是桃子,而不像豆子。我們平常所謂的“咖啡豆”是咖啡作爲植物的種子。</div>
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請認真對比以上三圖,必要時請百度百科。</div>
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也就是說,我們平時見到的咖啡豆,外面本來還有四層物質:銀皮、內果皮/生豆殼、中果皮/果肉&膠質、外果皮/紅色或黃色的果皮。</div>
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人們爲什麼不分國籍地將咖啡誤稱爲豆?主要是因爲往往人們容易無視掉咖啡果的果肉部分,咖啡果的果肉實在是太薄了,以下是咖啡果和桃子的橫剖面。</div>
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我們生活中喫桃子,是喫它的果肉部分;我們享用咖啡,卻是將它的種子烘烤後磨碎泡水飲用,至於其他的果皮、果肉則全部捨棄。再加上咖啡種子長得很像豆子,大家自然而然稱其爲咖啡豆。在以後的描述中,爲了簡約、便於理解,我們依然採用咖啡豆的稱謂,但是大家心裏需要有數,咖啡豆不是豆。</div>
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處理法存在的意義在於什麼?咖啡果子長在樹上,咖啡農將其採摘下時,它們長這個樣子。</div>
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此時依然是水果身的咖啡果,含水量還是相當高的,再加上咖啡果肉含有的糖分,堆在一起長時間放置的話很容易導致發酵、發黴,產生各種不好的味道,甚至出現食品安全問題。</div>
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人們因此要想辦法將不適合長途運輸、庫存的咖啡果轉換成一種穩定、不易變質的東西。</div>
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顧名思義,日曬法是通過更加大量的晾曬,將咖啡的含水量降低。日曬法是所有咖啡處理法中歷史最長的,日曬法的思想從咖啡進入大規模生產時就傳承下來。時至今日,相當部分的世界咖啡產量仍然採用日曬法。</div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit;">日曬法</span>也是一種非常“便宜”,非常“簡單”,也較爲“劣質”的處理法。還記得我們在講水洗法的時候說到水洗被普遍認爲是一種優於<a href="https://m.gafei.com/views-133979">咖啡豆日曬</a>法的處理法嗎?日曬法不需要太多機器,更不需要水。世界市場上絕大部分的商業級咖啡豆是日曬豆,往往帶有嚴重的風味缺陷,土味、洋蔥味以及發酵味。日曬豆的收購價往往很低,咖啡農們也因此沒有提高日曬水平的激勵,有的地區的咖啡農甚至直接將咖啡果放在泥土上晾曬。因此普遍講,<a href="https://www.gafei.com/kafeidou/20180813122557.html">咖啡豆日曬</a>法的咖啡豆質量低,風味差,碎粒多。但是作爲咖啡界處理法的主要貢獻者,它的重要性又要高於其他任何處理法之上。</div>
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說了這麼些,一些不瞭解<a href="https://m.gafei.com/views-130534">咖啡豆日曬</a>法的朋友肯定有些暈乎,那我們就來看看步驟。</div>
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談到咖啡豆日曬法,我能想到的第一個顏色就是太陽的金黃。就像水洗法的“水”,日曬法的“日”是整個過程中最重要的因素。</div>
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A. 採摘</div>
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B. 篩選</div>
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可以看到上圖採摘到的咖啡果成熟程度並不相同,工人們將咖啡果倒入一個大水池裏,不成熟的咖啡果因爲密度較低會漂在水面上,而成熟的咖啡果沉底,工人將未成熟的果子撈出來棄置。在個別極度缺水的地方,咖啡通過篩網而不是水桶進行篩選。其餘的咖啡果被帶入下一階段。</div>
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C. 晾曬</div>
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日曬法與水洗法最大的不同是,水洗法將咖啡生豆外層全部去除之後再進行晾曬乾燥,而日曬法卻不去除任何咖啡果結構,直接將整顆果子平鋪在水泥地面或者是透風網牀上晾曬,大概需要耗時二十多天,具體的耗時完全基於產地的環境特徵,此處不議。</div>
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如上圖,咖啡果被曬至紫黑色,表面因爲脫水而發皺。可以說咖啡的日曬法非常像風乾葡萄乾。當然,葡萄的核很小,而咖啡的核很大。我們是喫葡萄乾的乾果肉,至於“咖啡果乾”的果肉我們會在之後的工序脫去的。</div>
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D. 脫皮</div>
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與水洗法不同,日曬法中,咖啡果被曬乾後,外部的果皮很容易就會全部脫下來,而不需要像水洗那樣通過“發酵”將咖啡果膠脫下。</div>
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上圖中的上面是一顆日曬後咖啡果橫剖面,下面是一顆新鮮採摘的咖啡果橫剖面。</div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit;">日曬法</span>的咖啡果全部採用一種日曬專用的脫殼機器脫殼,這種脫殼機的口徑比水洗法的略大,因爲咖啡果體積比帶殼豆更大,厚厚的外皮整個被一次性剝離。在有的地區咖啡果皮並不會被廢棄,而是會被收集並清洗之後製成“咖啡果皮茶”,也門和埃塞俄比亞人有著飲用這種茶的長久歷史。</div>
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脫下皮的日曬生豆,就可以裝袋,準備運到各個咖啡消費國去了。</div>
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水洗法的思想是,將任何能夠影響生豆風味的外界因素消除,然後乾燥。</div>
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日曬的思想是,將所有能夠影響生豆風味的外界因素留著,一起幹燥。</div>
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優劣?區別?在哪裏?</div>
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先說說優點,日曬法保留果肉和生豆,果肉可以對生豆產生一些迷人的影響,普遍認爲果肉的發酵能夠給予咖啡豆水果,以及迷人酒香和發酵感的香味。真正優秀的日曬處理豆甜感極強,口感厚重,香氣複雜,而水洗法則突出一個乾淨和明亮(酸度),私認爲以頂級日曬與頂級水洗做比的話,日曬更勝一籌。</div>
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但是既然日曬法這麼厲害,爲什麼我們在精品咖啡界見到的更多是水洗而不是日曬呢?從整個咖啡行業來說,日曬法的質量低劣於水洗法。咖啡果本身作爲一種水果,含水量是相當高的。將咖啡果靜置在一處二十多天,自然會發生髮酵反應,反應程度正常還好說,要是發酵過度那就很容易產生腐壞。若是某處咖啡果堆積過厚,不透風,那麼腐壞就更加嚴重了。要想讓這一步安穩度過,不出岔子的話,需要大量人力頻繁攪動咖啡果堆,保證通風。加上日曬法中的篩選元素極少,僅僅在採摘下後進行了一次粗篩選,接下來就一路到咖啡麻袋裏了,日曬的瑕疵比率比水洗高了幾個數量級。一心要做出好咖啡的咖啡農可能會進行幾次精篩選。但是試問,對於那些甚至都沒有喝過咖啡的農民們,是養家餬口重要?還是爲了一個虛無縹緲的“精品咖啡”重要?往往,採用日曬法的咖啡農們不會給予咖啡豆那麼多照料,多是出自經濟學方面的考量。要想將日曬做好,需要很多經驗,更需要很多資金、器材、人力,總而言之,做出“優秀”日曬的成本甚至比做出水洗的成本還要高,那麼自然市面上見到的好日曬豆也少了。</div>
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若是發酵不適當,咖啡果沒有得到充足的翻動、通風、均勻晾曬,結果將是災難性的。任何東西發酵過度的味道都不會好,我們俗稱爲“發黴”,日曬不好的咖啡風味帶有濃重的腐乳味、腥味,以及一些咖啡老饕所說的“雞屎味”,具體詳見咖啡風味輪。</div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit;">日曬法</span>也不是哪裏都可以用的,對於那些潮溼且降雨多的地區,日曬法肯定是個壞選擇。如果咖啡果不能在一個月內乾燥完全的話,哪怕透氣再好,咖啡翻動再勤,咖啡也會開始腐壞、長黴。最典型的不適合日曬法的產區就是中美洲了,該地區的溼度太高,不適合日曬。</div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit;">日曬法</span>的咖啡生豆質量不均勻穩定,能夠影響生豆風味的因素全部被保留,在晾曬過程中,任何小的疏忽都能讓某個部分的咖啡果出狀況,同一批咖啡生豆,可能部分質量好部分壞。同樣,精心管理的日曬和普通粗放式的日曬也有極大區別,這也給了我們這些普通的消費者極大的選擇困難。每一次我買日曬豆時,我都做好了心理準備,有可能這一包豆不好喝,也有可能這包豆甜得上天。不像水洗豆的相對出品穩定,想要買到好的日曬豆完全是一個“看臉”的玄學過程,希望作爲消費者的各位也要注意。</div>
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總之,咖啡豆日曬法是一個全行業出品質量波動極大的處理法,好的能好上天,爛的能爛出黴味,別問我們怎麼知道的,那都是一個個血淚的教訓。</div>
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現在大規模採用日曬法的國家有:巴西,埃塞俄比亞,也門,印度……</div>
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<span style="font-size: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit; background-color: transparent;">如果有機會的話,請與水洗咖啡對比著嘗一下,你會發現很多區別,不同產區產國在不同處理法的詮釋之下,都有不同的迷人之處。</span></div>
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meta_title |
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meta_keywords |
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meta_description |
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urlrule |
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fix_html_now_url |
'' |
my_web_url |
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get |
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