4.1.4

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'咖啡製作技術 咖啡萃取率計算和黃金粉水比法則'

'/uploads/allimg/150109/1550023M4-0-lp.png'

'咖啡,製作,技術,萃取率,計算,和黃,金粉,水比,法則,新鮮'

'在新鮮烘焙的coffee進行杯測或者萃取的研究中，barista根據不同的coffee豆特性靈活地改變着不同的粉水比以及烘焙形式，主要是爲了還原或保存coffee原有的自然風味和特點，在手衝萃取的技能教學課堂，採取人工首選的精品，加之新鮮烘焙的品質，促使着coffee課'

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'中國咖啡交易網'

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'2015-01-09 15:49:27'

'2015-01-09 15:50:02'

'21869'

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'<p>
	　　在新鮮烘焙的coffee進行杯測或者萃取的研究中，barista根據不同的coffee豆特性靈活地改變着不同的粉水比以及烘焙形式，主要是爲了還原或保存coffee原有的自然風味和特點，在手衝萃取的技能教學課堂，採取人工首選的精品，加之新鮮烘焙的品質，促使着coffee課堂的學習氣氛很濃郁，如同杯中自己親自萃取的美味。</p>
<p>
	　　coffee已經成爲公認的人類生活必需品。它不再是一種奢侈品，也不再代表放縱，它是人類心血與能力的結晶。</p>
<p>
	　　&mdash;&mdash;威廉&bull;H&bull;尤克斯《關於咖啡的一切》(1922)2010年11月23日，我們在北卡羅來納州的瑟夫市，正準備爲緊張勞碌的新一天充實體力。我們睡眼惺忪地立在那，讓稀薄的黑色液體緩緩流進卡拉夫鐵瓶中。</p>
<p>
	　　我們是室友，同爲海軍陸戰隊步兵軍官。訓練、作戰計劃以及各種戰爭準備讓我們永遠處於缺覺的狀態。當時的coffee不過是一種苦澀的、能提供coffee因的東西，我們只是需要用它來保持清醒。</p>
<p>
	　　我們忽略了coffee的太多妙處。</p>
<p>
	　　幾年時光匆匆而過，我們也已解甲歸田。如今的我們在廚房裏，調製着coffee。美妙的coffee。</p>
<p>
	　　那種能在每天早上第一時間喚醒你對美好生活感激之情的coffee。它是藝術，是儀式，是圍桌分享的時光。</p>
<p>
	　　如果你像我們一樣，從來沒有人教過你如何正確地調製coffee，或如何品鑑它。當你駐足當地的coffee館，關於coffee的一切都隱藏在櫃檯後面，離你太遠而無法讓你去了解。不久之前，我們就是那樣。但我們經歷反覆的試驗，犯的錯誤多得離譜，而後終於學會了正確的方法。</p>
<p>
	　　在糟糕的coffee上浪費這些時間多麼讓人慚愧。如果你每天都要喝，或是每天都要調製給別人喝，還不如把coffee品質做得好一點。我們想要的是好coffee，對吧?</p>
<p>
	　　實際上，我們要的不止是好coffee，而是完美的coffee。</p>
<p>
	　　什麼是好coffee?</p>
<p>
	　　想要了解什麼是好coffee，我們首先要知道coffee界對其衝煮技術的衡量標準。畢竟，如果你想判定自己coffee能否歸爲佳品，有一個標準做參考會很有幫助。</p>
<p>
	　　衡量coffee品質這件事可以回溯到二十世紀五十年代。當時麻省理工大學化學系教授E.E.洛克哈特進行了一系列調查，來研究美國人的口味偏好。他大體上就是對許多喝coffee的人進行了調查，詢問他們的喜好的口味。</p>
<p>
	　　洛克哈特用一張&ldquo;coffee衝煮控制圖&rdquo;發表了他的研究成果，用圖表的形式呈現出當時的美國人心目中最好的coffee是怎樣的。</p>
<p>
	　　多年以後，美國專業coffee協會(SCAA)證實了美國人的口味變化不大。至少對美國人來說，完美的coffee就是提取率在18%~22%、衝煮後固體總溶解量在1.15%~1.35%範圍內的coffee。</p>
<p>
	　　爲專業術語而困惑?別這樣。</p>
<p>
	　　提取率是指從原始的幹coffee渣種中提取出的coffee粒子的量。固體總溶解量表示coffee固體在一杯coffee中的實際佔比(也就是通常說的&ldquo;衝煮強度&rdquo;)。</p>
<p>
	　　把這些信息聯繫起來，你就得到了coffee衝煮控制圖，圖中中心區域突出顯示的就是衝煮強度與提取率的最優組合。</p>
<p>
	　　我們調製coffee的目的是要至臻完美。似乎每個人都在吹噓自己的達成最佳提取率的獨特而神祕的過程，但我們在這裏告訴你，這沒什麼了不起。</p>
<p>
	　　相反，這其中的關鍵是要以1份coffee兌17.42份水的黃金比例爲基礎。這個比例最能讓你達到最佳區域，並且沒有單位限制，也就是說你想以克、盎司、磅、英石還是以噸位單位都是你自己的事兒。</p>
<p>
	　　因此，如果你想調製提取率爲20%且固體總溶解量爲1.28%的coffee，你可以用30克幹coffee原料加523克水打底，然後以此爲基礎進行調整。</p>
<p>
	　　同時，人們常常錯將提取率和固體總溶解這兩個概念混淆。搞清楚這兩個概念的區別很重要。</p>
<p>
	　　衝煮強度是指溶解在你coffee裏固體coffee的量。而提取率表示你從幹coffee原料裏得到的提取物的量。重點是，濃coffee和苦澀度、coffee因含量或者烘焙曲線沒有任何關係，只和你杯子裏coffee和水的比例有關係。</p>
<p>
	　　所有這些數值的測量方法在2008年得到了偉大的革新。一家名爲&ldquo;語音系統技術公司&rdquo;的企業決定將折射計原理&mdash;&mdash;折射計是一種用來偵測粒子折射的光波的儀器&mdash;&mdash;應用到一個項目中，並由此開發出一款叫做ExtractMojo的coffee濃度分析儀。</p>
<p>
	　　這個儀器可以精確顯示coffee的固體總溶解量值，再將其與&ldquo;coffee衝煮控制圖&rdquo;對照，就可以既科學又注重口味地調製出更好喝的coffee了。</p>
<p>
	　　有些純粹主義者反對用這樣的設備來衡量一杯coffee的品質，這讓作爲退役海軍陸戰隊員的我們想到一個類似的話題，那就是大家對於槍支管控的討論。</p>
<p>
	　　是槍支本身有問題，還是大家使用槍支的方式有問題?</p>
<p>
	　　是濃度分析儀有問題，還是大家使用這個儀器的方法有問題?</p>
<p>
	　　這些問題引發了激烈的討論，討論的出發點是好的。但是槍支和濃度分析儀都是工具，與其他工具一樣，他們也都可能被不恰當的使用。</p>
<p>
	　　讓我們還是用&ldquo;堡壘原則&rdquo;(castledoctrine)來看這個問題吧：在家悄悄的用濃度分析儀就好了。</p>
<p>
	　　衝煮coffee的基本原則</p>
<p>
	　　一旦弄明白什麼是好coffee以及大家是如何衡量好壞的，學會衝煮coffee就容易多了。</p>
<p>
	　　六個基本原則是：</p>
<p>
	　　1.選購優質coffee豆：請選用可持續種植的全豆coffee，採摘後幾周內即要進行烘焙。而且，如果你有意加入如今正風行全美的coffee復興運動&ldquo;第三次浪潮&rdquo;(thirdwave)，就選擇用較輕度烘焙的coffee豆，這樣才能真正品嚐到coffee特有的風味。</p>
<p>
	　　深度烘焙會使coffee豆失去這些風味。我們知道這樣說聽起來有點奇怪，但是深度烘焙的coffee豆就好比一塊本來還不錯但被烤得面目全非的牛排。</p>
<p>
	　　2.衝煮coffee前現磨coffee：烘焙過的coffee豆是很脆弱且易腐壞的。coffee比紅酒含有更多香味成分，但是這些香味成分被氧化後很快會變質。</p>
<p>
	　　衝煮coffee前現磨coffee可以保留這些成分的原味。想讓你的自調coffee更好喝，這是最重要的一點。</p>
<p>
	　　3.正確存放coffee：不立即用的coffee豆應存放在密閉容器中，避免陽光照射。對於coffee是否要冷藏儲存這個問題，coffee界內存在諸多爭議。</p>
<p>
	　　我們可以折中一下。兩週內不會用的coffee豆可以冷藏存放;兩週內會用到的coffee豆就不用冷藏。</p>
<p>
	　　4.正確配比coffee和水：大家常犯的一個錯誤就是coffee放的不夠多。我們捨不得&mdash;&mdash;總覺得多放一勺coffee就跟浪費了似的。但是之前我們提到過的黃金比例絕對是做出好coffee的重要起點，也是達到這個目的的最簡單方法。</p>
<p>
	　　5.注重技巧：討論如何一步步完成每種衝煮coffee的方法超出了這篇文章的範疇，但是所有方法背後有一個共通事實，那就是做出好coffee是一件要求準確度和協調性的事。</p>
<p>
	　　每種衝煮方法都有些特殊技巧，但經過一遍又一遍的反覆練習，你就能修正錯誤，進步越來越大。</p>
<p>
	　　6.使用優質工具：相較於從打折區裏淘來的便宜貨，優質工具衝煮出的coffee會更好喝。是的，這些工具更像是前期投資，但長遠來看是值得的。優質工具的使用壽命更長，也能讓衝煮coffee的整個過程簡單很多。</p>
<p>
	　　經典微調方法：</p>
<p>
	　　記住這些原則之後，就可以選擇一種coffee衝煮方法了，而所有衝煮方法要考慮到的因素不外乎這些：一個是coffee的醇厚度，一個是coffee風味的純正度，還有就是兩者的組合變化。醇厚度和純正度兩者之間的平衡在一定程度上取決於用來做這杯coffee的coffee豆。</p>
<p>
	　　在我們剛剛開始接觸這一切、對coffee還不熟悉的時候，可惜沒人能解釋清楚爲什麼法式壓濾壺(Frenchpress)做出的coffee如此醇厚，或是爲什麼手衝coffee(pourover)能有這麼純粹的口味。</p>
<p>
	　　這些問題的答案被竭力掩藏起來。我們只看到這些不解之謎的表象，把疑問暫擱一旁。</p>
<p>
	　　最終我們通過化學方法找到了問題的答案。從化學角度來說，世界中的物質被分爲可溶解物質和不可溶解物質兩類。從coffee粉中萃取出的可溶解顆粒產生了coffee特有的風味和氣味，而不可溶解顆粒的主要作用則是使coffee有了醇厚感。</p>
<p>
	　　烘焙過的coffee豆由這兩種顆粒共同構成，所以萃取過程中如何平衡這兩種成分，也就決定了你的coffee最後會是怎樣。</p>
<p>
	　　你更喜歡口感較濃郁、砂感較強的coffee?試試法式壓濾壺吧。在尋覓口感純淨、能突出南美coffee豆的柑橘香或是非洲coffee豆漿果風味的coffee?去瞧瞧手衝coffee機。</p>
<p>
	　　大家各有所好，但只要選好了衝煮方法，你便可以通過調節這些變量來進一步對coffee進行精細的調配：</p>
<p>
	　　1.coffee豆的研磨粒度：研磨粒度影響着顆粒的表面積，進而影響提取率。粗磨的coffee豆與等量細磨的coffee豆相比，表面積更小，使得水分更難進行滲透或提取coffee固體。</p>
<p>
	　　均勻的研磨粒度意味coffee中油與酸的提取率相當，從而不會出現未被充分萃取的大顆粒或是萃取過度的小顆粒。這也正是coffee專家們總是倡導大家購置一臺優質磨盤式研磨機的原因。你猜怎麼着?他們是對的。</p>
<p>
	　　2.水溫：由於溫度較高時，固體溶解得更快，所以溫度影響提取率。此外，溫度還決定着哪種固體會溶解，進而影響口味。水溫過高會使得coffee發酸，因爲高溫會把coffee豆中口感不佳的酸性物質釋放出來。</p>
<p>
	　　因此，我們推薦你使用195至202華氏度的水來衝煮coffee。請記住，這裏是指coffee的實際溫度，而不是水溫。二者之間通常是有差異的。</p>
<p>
	　　3.衝煮時攪動coffee渣的次數：你可以在水流經過時，攪動coffee渣，進一步控制衝煮過程。攪動之所以有用，是因爲它會提高已溶解的coffee固體在水中的擴散速度，讓coffee渣能夠更迅速地接觸到水。</p>
<p>
	　　但攪動同樣有降低水溫的作用，我們知道這會影響衝煮過程。但說到底，這只是那種你反覆摸索就能掌握的技巧。</p>
<p>
	　　4.coffee和水的配比：說來說去都要回到這一點上，有點奇怪，對嗎?</p>
<p>
	　　但這裏的關鍵區別在於，調配coffee時，你不用嚴格依照黃金比例。而是，依照個人口味進行調節。爲了使調配更容易，購置一臺天平吧。與測容量比起來，測coffee和水的重量得出的結果會更加精確。</p>
<p>
	　　最後一點。好的coffee師會告訴你，保證一次只調節一個變量，這樣才能夠準確地觀測到成果。一次調節兩個變量，會混淆結果，你會分不清究竟是變動了X變量還是Y變量，引發了結果的變化。</p>
<p>
	　　這可不是什麼複雜的航天科學</p>
<p>
	　　儘管我們大談特談了化學反應、粒子、分子以及提取率等概念，煮出好coffee與其說是門科學，不如說是門藝術。一旦掌握了衝煮程序背後的規律，你就能研究出一套最適合自己的方法。</p>
<p>
	　　那就是coffee的魅力所在。剛進入這個領域的時候，我們十分尷尬，對大部分的基本知識都一無所知。選料、加工、器具&mdash;&mdash;一股腦全湧過來，我們根本無從下手。</p>
<p>
	　　但很快，我們就會發現，自己正沿着coffee研習之路向上攀爬。煮出好coffee並不必窮其一生。它是我們可在週六早上隨手練起、陶冶情操的一種愛好。隨着我們不斷地摸索，情況也時好時壞，我們有時會陷入窘境、手足無措。我們耗費了大量時間。我們浪費了許多coffee。</p>
<p>
	　　儘管我們儘可能多地閱覽相關書籍，有時還會固執己見、無知盲目，總會有那麼幾天，由於不理解、不依照別人教授的技巧來操作，我們犯了錯誤，然後纔將要領掌握。</p>
<p>
	　　但是，喫一塹、長一智。我們便總結出了哪些方法是不湊效的。總有新鮮的事物去嘗試，我們也便這樣無計劃地自然成長着。</p>
<p>
	　　對我們來說，這是一項長期的修行，我們一直在學習，總有提高、探索及創新的空間。</p>
<p>
	　　大多數coffee相關的知識早就存在，而且現代人對coffee的探索也已持續了一百多年。那麼現在，則輪到我們投身這趟coffee學習之旅了。</p>
<center>
	<img alt="" height="346" src="/uploads/allimg/150109/1550023M4-0.png" width="568" /></center>
<center>
	<img alt="" height="267" src="/uploads/allimg/150109/15500215c-1.png" width="567" /></center>
<p>
	　　【黃金粉水比：1份咖啡兌17.42份水】</p>
<center>
	<img alt="" height="340" src="/uploads/allimg/150109/15500211Z-2.png" width="570" /></center>
<p>
	　　【金盃準則：完美的咖啡就是提取率在18%~22%、衝煮後固體總溶解量在1.15%~1.35%範圍內的咖啡】</p>
'

'咖啡,製作,技術,萃取率,計算,和黃,金粉,水比,法則,新鮮'

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'1420789767'

'1420789802'

'咖啡製作技術 咖啡萃取率計算和黃金粉水比法則_咖啡技術_咖啡知識_中國咖啡網'

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'在新鮮烘焙的coffee進行杯測或者萃取的研究中，barista根據不同的coffee豆特性靈活地改變着不同的粉水比以及烘焙形式，主要是爲了還原或保存coffee原有的自然風味和特點，在手衝萃取的技能教學課堂，採取人工首選的精品，加之新鮮烘焙的品質，促使着coffee課'

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      array (
        'pagesize' => 20,
        'mpagesize' => 20,
        'page' => 'page.html',
        'list' => 'list.html',
        'category' => 'category.html',
        'search' => 'search.html',
        'show' => 'show.html',
      ),
      'cat_field' => '',
      'module_field' => '',
      'html' => 0,
    ),
    'displayorder' => '0',
    'acount' => '38',
    'namerule' => '{typedir}/{Y}{M}{D}{aid}.html',
    'namerule2' => '{typedir}/list_{tid}_{page}.html',
    'mid' => 'article',
    'pcatpost' => 1,
    'topid' => '4',
    'domain' => '',
    'catids' => 
    array (
      0 => '673',
    ),
    'is_post' => 1,
    'mobile_domain' => '',
    'tid' => 1,
    'url' => 'https://gafei.com/list-kafeipeixun.html',
    'total' => 38,
    'field' => 
    array (
    ),
  ),
)

'/views-21919-[page].html'

''

'https://madmin.gafei.com/views-21919'

array (
  's' => 'article',
  'c' => 'show',
  'id' => '21919',
  'm' => 'index',
)